Tiekel River to Glennallen

Day 24--Sunday, August 11, 2002, 64.38 miles

The first time I got up (6-ish) it was raining hard, but the second time (8 a.m.) it was overcast and windy, but wasn't raining. We made our usual hot oatmeal breakfast and were on the road by 9:30.

What a blast! We were riding right at the leading edge of a storm, so though we occasionally got caught by the rain, the wind was fierce out of the southeast . . . and we were headed northwest. Not only did we have a strong tailwind, but the terrain was undemanding to downhill for the most part—maybe three or four steep, short climbs out of river valleys.

Eventually the Wrangall St. Elias Range was on our right, but it was so overcast and clouded that I did not even waste film with a photo. In fact, though the scenery is still spectacular, I took only two or three photos today. The first of Jess and our little green Tiekel River cabin, one of a birch forest, and two of the flowers at this restaurant (I'm writing this after dinner from the Caribou Lodge).

We are camped close to the intersection of the Glenn and Richardson Highways in a little campground called Northern Nights. The woman who runs it seems to be a fun loving person who talks in a shout. When Jess asked her where we might get supper and perhaps a beer, she shouted, "NOWWHERE IN GLENALLEN! IT'S A DRY TOWN!" Then she came by the campsite on her little four-wheeler and dropped off two cold Buds from her own fridge. Also a free mosquito coil.

The only problem with Northern Nights is that she hasn't completed her showers yet, so the only "amenities" are a Porta Potty and a water "spriket," her term. We set up camp and decided to pedal down the hill into Glennallen to see about a laundromat and showers, and an ATM machine—also to treat ourselves to supper out. We decided we deserved it. We'd kicked it today. And we are going to save money by camping, though it is very windy and cold and the temps are supposed to drop to 40 or below tonight. Probably end up wearing half my clothes to bed.

Can't think of much else noteworthy about this day. I'm still hoping to see the elusive moose. Today as I was crawling up one of those hills after lunch at Squirrel Creek CG, I saw large splayed moose tracks beside the road. I thought—oh so briefly—of taking a photo, but didn't want to stop mid-climb.

Tomorrow we stay in the Bureau of Land Management (BLM ) cabin I rented on Fielding Lake. According to all, the weather tomorrow is supposed to be a repeat of today.