Cooper Creek to Soldotna

Day 13--Wednesday, July 31, 2002, 47.67 miles

According to the guidebook, Cooper Landing "sits in the heart of some of the best fishing in the world. It's located at the west end of Kenai Lake and near the world famous Kenai River. It was named for Joseph Cooper, a miner who discovered gold here in the 1890s. Roads were built in the late 40s and early 50s to Kenai and Anchorage."

The Kenai River, which runs beside the road, is wide, deep, very swift and a beautiful milky blue-green.

Kenai river near the road; it really was the color shown in the photo

We got to bed so late last night that we slept in until 9:15 this morning. I woke at my usual 6, took my medications, cleaned up yesterday's report, and then snuggled down for a couple more hours.

David and Nadine came over and chatted while we ate big breakfasts so that I wouldn't "crash and burn" like I did yesterday. Yesterday's 60-some miles was the longest D & N had ridden in one day in the four months they've been on the road. Today they are going only 4 or 5 miles to the Russian River campground. They are hikers first and cyclists second, and they want to hike a trail out of that area. We said good-bye and gave them the directions to Seaside Farms Campground & Hostel, in Homer...recommended to us by several people we've met. We're expecting to meet up with them again down there.

Forgot to mention in yesterday's update that we've had to wear our head nets for the first time. And not because of mosquitoes, but because of flies. They look like slim house flies, but they're much slower, and they bite. They got me unmercifully when I was climbing slowly and sweatily yesterday. They light on your cheeks and hairline and try to get in your ears and nose. There were swarms of them at our campsite last night and so drove us into the sanctuary of the tent.

Because we got up so late, we didn't get off until nearly noon today. Only 1.5 miles down the road we came to a rafting place with a phone—two side by side phone booths—so we stopped so that I could mail the update. Mailed it and stepped out of the phone booth to share the received mail with Jess. One of the e-mails was from a reporter in Homer who had heard of our arrival and wanted a photo and interview. I typed out a reply, but there was now a man in the booth I'd used, so I used the booth beside it to send the reply.

When we started to leave, I discovered that my Bolle sunglasses were missing. I had set them on top of the phone in the other booth, and all we can think is that the man who had been in it walked off with them. I even rode back to the campsite and searched it just in case. No glasses. Went into the rafting place and bought another pair—for $5. They have lavender lenses (and I wear my walkie-talkie clipped to the front of my sports bra), so Jess is now calling me Rosie.

Today's ride was a breeze—literally. At about 15 miles into it we caught a tailwind that saw us soaring along. Most of the route was very gentle rolling with long sloping up- and downhills. The first 15 miles were dangerous, however. Curvy and narrow with no shoulders. Also, many of these miles were along the Kenai River which is filled with salmon . . . and fishermen. This, of course, means many RVs and pickups and boats pulling onto and off the road.

At one of our stops I moaned about losing my good sunglasses. Jess said, "They were just a material possession. It's not like you lost an arm or something. It's water under the bridge. Just be positive and get over it." I replied: "Well, okay. Pip, pip old chap, keep a stiff upper lip and all that. Bally ho!" Cracked us up.

On our coast ride Jess's favorite expression was (in an E. Indian accent): "You are up the wrong tree barking. I am not knowing." This trip her favorite expression is (in a veddy British accent): "Good luck! God speed, and remember we're counting on you." Can't tell you how glad I am that Jess decided to come with me. When I'm flagging she's encouraging. If you were to believe her I've "kicked ass" every single day.

The roadside scenery today changed from high green mountains and waterfalls to level roadside marshes and small spruce forests.

We stopped outside of Sterling at a cute little log cafe called Suzie's for a salad and a drink to go with our pb&j sandwiches. Jess described her salad as a "bowl of blue cheese dressing on which floated several pieces of iceberg lettuce." She's been doing a lot of moaning about the lack of fresh and nutritious food. Maybe I need to tell her to "get over it."

Nine miles or so later we arrived in Soldotna at the Central Emergency Services facility where we are spending the night. We were given three choices: pedal another 10 miles to a station with bed as well as a shower, shower at CES and camp one mile down the road at a campsite with no showers, or sleep on the floor in the training room and use the CES shower. We chose the third option, which means we don't have to put up the tent.

After a shower, etc. we crossed the road to a Safeway and bought food. Tomorrow morning after shift change, we will prepare a super breakfast in the kitchen. Life is good.